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Title: Detectives on Everest: The 2001 Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition by Jochen Hemmleb, Eric Simonson, Dave Hahn ISBN: 0-89886-871-8 Publisher: Mountaineers Books Pub. Date: August, 2002 Format: Paperback Volumes: 1 List Price(USD): $19.95 |
Average Customer Rating: 3.71 (7 reviews)
Rating: 3
Summary: To the reader
Comment: Dear reader,
Could you really believe that mountaineers climbing at 29000 fts. during nightime and on unknown terrain without torchlighs are able to reach the summitt of Everest? The point is this and, please, don't try to make me believe that Chineses' accurate report of terrain is genuine, because aerial surveys and photos were made in 1960 too and, moreover, mountaineers could have reached a point between the second step and the summit, but to summit in pitch dark seems too much even for the more optimistic.I'm astounded by the accuracy and by the affection that you, reader, seem to feel for Hemmleb's account: have I reached someone near Jochen or Eric? Maybe I'm not expert in history, but geography tells that South Tirol, that is Alto Adige is within the boundary of Italy, keep an atlas at hand and you'll see that this is not a nation represented at the United Nations Organization and that on Messner's passport it's stamped "Italy"... There are many people in Italy who wants the entire northern part of the Country separated from the rest of us: Would you call an Everest ascent from a Milanese an ascent of Padanian Country? Let me tell you that these particularisms in a time of a united Europe sounds a little parochially-minded and anti-historic. But, I was forgetting... Hemmleb is from Germany, so he is sensible to other German speaking people...
Rating: 4
Summary: Careful research, careless readers
Comment: Giancarlo Passarini's review (see below) shows an undercurrent problem certain readers seem to have with the research Hemmleb et al. have done. Passarini doesn't like the possibility that the Chinese climbed Everest in 1960, so he attacks the author and suspects that statements approving of the Chinese claim were a "trade-off" for the information Hemmleb and Simonson received about Irvine. Nonsense! Passarini ignores that "Detectives" is very careful in its analysis of the 1960 Chinese expedition, including qualifying comments such as "Here is the story as the three (Chinese) later put it on record" (p. 156) or "Of the terrain (between the Second Step and the summit) the Chinese could provide only verbal descriptions" (p. 157) - all a far cry from flatly stating "the Chinese did it", as Passarini thinks the book has done. If careful, distinguished research is treated this way, the fault doesn't lie with the author but with the reader. (As for the issue of "South Tyrol", a more impartial view of its history and semi-autonomous status is advisable, but is beyond the scope of this review)
Rating: 3
Summary: Great scoop without much more
Comment: The most interesting part in this book is the scoop from Chinese mountaineers that they discovered a body during the 1960, maybe Irvine's one and this revelation triggered another expedition this year( March 2004). But Chinese do nothing for nothing, so we read Hemmleb admitting that in 1960 the expedition reached the summit, even if in unreal conditions (...summit reached at 02.00 AM without torchlights, come on, Jochen, don't fool us!).This sounds a little like a reward for the Chinese, you guys tell us your secret, we aknowledge officially your expedition...Wanna bet? This year's expedition will find finally Irvine's body but there will be no trace of the camera, because the Chinese had already taken it in 1960 or in 1975 and kept it under their famous iron curtain not to spoil their epic mountaineers.Oh, Jochen, please, keep yourself updated: Reinhold Messner was born and raised in Italy, so his first solo ascent of Everest in 1980 should be reported as "Reinhold Messner, Italy" not, as you wrote, "South Tirol" that is "Alto Adige" that is a province of an Italian region
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Title: Ghosts of Everest: The Search for Mallory & Irvine by Jochen Hemmleb, Larry A. Johnson, Eric R. Simonson, William E. Nothdurft ISBN: 0898866995 Publisher: Mountaineers Books Pub. Date: October, 1999 List Price(USD): $29.95 |
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Title: Fearless on Everest: The Quest for Sandy Irvine by Julie Summers ISBN: 0898867967 Publisher: Mountaineers Books Pub. Date: March, 2001 List Price(USD): $18.95 |
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Title: The Mystery of Mallory & Irvine by Tom Holzel, Audrey Salkeld, Tom Hozel, Eric R. Simonson ISBN: 0898867266 Publisher: Mountaineers Books Pub. Date: March, 2000 List Price(USD): $18.95 |
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Title: Ghosts of Everest: The Search for Mallory and Irvine by Jochen Hemmleb, Larry A. Johnson, Eric R. Simonson, William E. Nothdurft ISBN: 0898868505 Publisher: Mountaineers Books Pub. Date: September, 2001 List Price(USD): $24.95 |
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Title: The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory on Mt. Everest by Conrad Anker ISBN: 0684871521 Publisher: Simon & Schuster Pub. Date: 08 May, 2001 List Price(USD): $12.00 |
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