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Title: The Rock Warrior's Way: Mental Training for Climbers by Arno Ilgner ISBN: 0-9740112-0-7 Publisher: Desiderata Inst Pub. Date: June, 2003 Format: Paperback List Price(USD): $16.95 |
Average Customer Rating: 4.75 (4 reviews)
Rating: 5
Summary: Gripped Magazine - Sonnie Trotter
Comment: Since the day I started climbing I always felt there was a strong mental aspect to our sport. It became obvious to me when I started following Eric Hörst's mental tips and found jumps in my ability. I felt more powerful even though my muscles had not grown any stronger.
After breaking through small barriers, I realized there was another world of mental training, but I had no idea where to turn. There were authors putting out psychological books for other sports, but climbing has always been more complicated. Arno Ilgner has filled this gap with his new book, The Rock Warrior's Way.
Don't let the cover fool you. When I first picked it up, my impression was that this book was dedicated to old school trad methods. This could not have been further from the truth. This book is for all climbers. Some of his themes are self observation and the importance of separating our identity from our experiences and responding to them with patience and intelliegence.
Ilgner finds a way to make order of chaos. He's found a way to express our mental habits that everyone can understand and he's created simple and effective ways to address our problems. Whatever your level of climbing, you will walk away from this book with valuable lessons.
--Sonnie Trotter, Gripped magazine
Rating: 5
Summary: Rock and Ice Magazine - Rob Dillon
Comment: Twenty years ago, Arno Ilgner and his buddy Steve Petro were working a hard route, Morning Sickness (5.11d) in Fremont Canyon, Wyoming, that was reachy for both. Petro, while an excellent climber, complained daily about being too short for the initial move. Finally, Ilgner blew up, and told him to just accept his height: "You aren't going to grow any taller and the roof isn't getting any shorter!" Petro, briefly taken aback, decided to work with what was--instead of wasn't--available, and sent the route next visit.
Ilgner, a hard Southern climber and runout guru of 30 years, has learned much along the way, compiling a program of mental training for climbers that he has now condensed into The Rock Warrior's Way. While drawing from his own experience, Ilgner also sought concepts through a wide range of sources, from Carlos Castaneda to the Russian spiritualist George Gurdjieff.
Considering the many books dedicated to climbing training, little writing hitherto has addressed the climber's mind in-depth. Ilgner's self-published book is short on frills--the design is basic and the black-and-white photos unspectacular--but long on "warrior" beta, containing thoughtful information worth every penny of the price. Ilgner has managed to convey his experience into a chewy, yet readable and effective, guide to attaining the focused power of the martial-arts student. The book offers a process for a climber--say, facing a runout or a hard route--to prepare for challenges, assess the difficulties ahead, and transition into action.
--Rob Dillon, Rock and Ice magazine
Rating: 4
Summary: American Alpine News Editor
Comment: Who hasn't, at some point in their climbing career, felt the cold knot of fear in the belly, and an internal dialogue that goes something along the lines of, "I wish I wasn't here; the pro sucks, just get me through this and I won't climb again, or at least for a week." And yet, as Arno Ilgner points out, you chose to go up that route. Once you make the choice, you should contrinue to stay in charge of choices, and this internal dialogue can sap your ability to do the route. Ilgner's "The Rock Warrior's Way" is an excellent primer for mental training for climbing.
Ilgner addresses seven processes of what he calls "the warrior's way" that can lead to better climbing: becoming conscious, life if subtle, accepting responsibility, giving, choices, listening and the journey. Ilgner's main thesis is that the ego seeks glory without effort, and that the ego distracts you from learning from the experiences you undergo. By learning to turn off the ego, and climb for the challenge alone instead of the rewards of being able to say you did a hard route, you become more attuned with your climbing. Once you learn to accept the situation as it is, instead of wishing for it to be easy, you can learn how to deal with it. After all, if all climbs were easy, you might as well just climb a ladder.
Ilgner does seem to have more of a sport climber mentality in at least one area--his acceptance of falling. He even encourages you to practice falling so you can learn to deal with the fear of it. For me, at least, this casualness about falling can have serious consequences. On ice, for instance, falling is a really bad idea; so too in the mountains. Any fall can have serious consequences, and I feel that courting an attitude that you can always anticipate the consequences of a fall belies the nature of physics and chaos theory, so I found it grating.
Other than that one caveat, there is a lot of information in here that could benefit any climber. Ilgner also includes a series of training exercises at the end of the book that can be used to help implement the precepts of the book. "The Rock Warrior's Way" can help every climber improve.
--Candace Horgan, American Alpine News
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Title: Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing Performance by Eric J. Horst ISBN: 0762723130 Publisher: Falcon Pub. Date: 01 December, 2002 List Price(USD): $16.95 |
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Title: How to Climb 5.12, 2nd by Eric J. Horst ISBN: 0762725761 Publisher: Falcon Pub. Date: 01 September, 2003 List Price(USD): $14.95 |
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Title: Climbing: Training for Peak Performance (Outdoor Expert) by Clyde Soles ISBN: 089886898X Publisher: Mountaineers Books Pub. Date: November, 2002 List Price(USD): $18.95 |
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Title: Climb On! Skills for More Efficient Climbing by Hans Florine, Bill Wright ISBN: 076271168X Publisher: Falcon Pub. Date: 01 December, 2001 List Price(USD): $12.95 |
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Title:Inertia 1 and 2 Rock Climbing DVD ASIN: B0000XO67K Publisher: Integrity 7 Productions Pub. Date: 16 October, 2003 List Price(USD): $24.95 Comparison N/A, buy it from Amazon for $24.95 |
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