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Title: K2, The Savage Mountain by Charles H. Houston, Robert H. Bates ISBN: 1-58574-013-6 Publisher: The Lyons Press Pub. Date: 01 May, 2000 Format: Paperback Volumes: 1 List Price(USD): $16.95 |
Average Customer Rating: 4.67 (9 reviews)
Rating: 5
Summary: One of the best historic reviews on Himalaya climbing
Comment: Following the tragic 1986 season on K2, Curran seems magically drawn to this mountain, and succeeds in masterfully recounting the major explorations of the peak and region.
The book spans over a century and half of explorations and expeditions in the region -- from early topographical work by the British survey, to turn of 20-th century expeditions by the Duke of Abruzzi, to the wonderfully described American expeditions by Charles Houston in the 1930s, to the first successful and controversial climb by the Italians in 1954 and finally the major climbs in the 1970s and 1980s!
The book's greatest qualities are its comprehensive character without becoming tedious; it's ability to draw a picture of the restless human spirit, it its strengths and weaknesses; in the author's ability to create human stories out of historical accounts.
Rating: 3
Summary: Great Teamwork
Comment: Although I have nothing but the utmost respect for these reknowned climbers and their worthy attempt to summit K2, I did not enjoy this book nearly as much as some of the other climbing epics out there today.
It is interesting to see the difference in climbing narratives written back in the 50's as compared to those written in the last thirty years or so. It seems like there was a different attitude toward climbing in the 50's and before, one that was more supportive of teamwork and cooperation, whereas many of today's narrations are more reflective of each person being responsible for taking care of him or herself only (such as the '96 Everest disaster). As in the case of Art Gilkey's emergency situation, the entire team without question (at least in this rendition of the story) made the effort to get him off of the mountain.
I was somewhat bored by this narrative though (except for storm and the famous Pete Schoening team-arrest) and it's one-dimensional portrayal of the team members. It made me wonder if Houston and Bates were telling it like it really was. They were always very complimentary toward everyone on the team. But in extreme, stressful conditions (both mentally and physically) like these, don't people sometimes become short-tempered, or even withdrawn? But perhaps the authors' objective was not to give insight into individual team members and how they interacted with one another, but rather to just tell of their adventure and how, through remarkable teamwork, they were able to survive K2 against the odds, and live to tell about it.
I also would have liked to see more detailed maps of their route throughout the book, so it would be easier to follow them on their ascent and descent.
I won't deny that this book deserves a place with the other classic mountaineering epics, due to the extraordinary events that this team lived through. However, I prefer narratives that really tell it like it is, "warts and all." I want to get a true sense of the struggles (to feel like I am really there in the bitter cold), and come to understand each person who makes up the entire team.
Rating: 5
Summary: Classic historical climb
Comment: A 1953 climb still translates in 2002. This is a detailed account cowritten by two of the climbers and is very detailed including the long walk in. I was surprised how little mountain climbing had changed although it did appear distances traveled daily were less as they required 8 campsites to get to the peak. I find books on mountaineering expeditions very interesting although the climbs themselves contain long periods of boredom. This expedition is no different as a brutal storm stops the climbers just short of the summit. The book does a great job detailing how high altitude can effect a climber's body. One of the writers was a doctor.
Needless to say, the long, unforgiving storm takes it's toll on the men placing them in ultimate peril. Getting down from the high altitude, steep face carrying a wounded member led to the most incredible living disaster I have ever read. Well, living for most of the climbers
Read this book for adventure and historical climbing perspective.
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Title: The Last Step: The American Ascent of K2 by Rick Ridgeway ISBN: 0898866324 Publisher: Mountaineers Books Pub. Date: 01 July, 1999 List Price(USD): $21.95 |
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Title: Annapurna by Maurice Herzog ISBN: 1558215492 Publisher: The Lyons Press Pub. Date: 01 June, 1997 List Price(USD): $16.95 |
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Title: Five Miles High by Robert H. Bates, Charles H. Houston ISBN: 1585740519 Publisher: The Lyons Press Pub. Date: 01 May, 2000 List Price(USD): $16.95 |
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Title: K2 : Triumph and Tragedy by Jim Curran ISBN: 0395485908 Publisher: Mariner Books Pub. Date: 03 February, 1989 List Price(USD): $15.00 |
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Title: Into Thin Air : A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster by JON KRAKAUER ISBN: 0385494785 Publisher: Anchor Pub. Date: 19 October, 1999 List Price(USD): $13.95 |
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